The Alheira—A Portuguese Sausage that Helped Jewish People Avoid Persecution
When you think of Jewish cuisine, you don’t typically think of sausage. Most sausage uses pork, of course, and pork is prohibited under the Jewish dietary laws. But a very special type of sausage, made in Portugal, was instrumental in minimizing the persecution of Jews during the Spanish Inquisition 500 years ago. It’s called Alheira and it remains so popular in its native country that was tabbed as one of Portugal’s top seven gastronomic wonders a decade ago.
What Is Alheira?
Alheira, derived from the Portuguese word “alho,” meaning “garlic,” is a sausage made with bread and meat. Though the Alheira sold today can include pork, when it was first created, around the year 1500, it consistently primarily of chicken and occasionally of other wild game meats. Garlic remains a common ingredient, but it may also be made with rabbit, quail, veal or duck. The Alheira de aves, made with poultry, remains among the most popular in Portugal today, particularly in the northern part of the country. Other common versions include Alheira de carne (with beef) and Alheira de caca (with wild game).
For centuries, the most common way to serve Alheira was grilled or roasted, typically with a plate of boiled vegetables. It’s now almost a fast-food item, frequently served with a fried egg and French fries. The specific recipe for Alheira varies geographically across Portugal.
How Was Alheira Instrumental in Saving Jewish Lives?
During the Spanish Inquisition, people of the Jewish faith were subjected to widespread persecution. Violence directed toward the Jewish Community was common and was generally tolerated by ruling officials. The Alhambra Decree, implemented in January 1492, gave all Jewish people across Portugal a choice—they could convert to Catholicism/Christianity, they could voluntarily leave the country, or they would be sentenced to death. Many Jewish people left Portugal, but many also chose to stay, publicly giving the appearance of conversion, but secretly practicing their Jewish faith.
In the village of Mirandela, in Northern Portugal, residents typically hung pork sausages from the rafters of their home to provide food for the winter. The sausage was typically visible throughout the neighborhood. If a person came to visit you and you had no sausage hanging in the rafters, you would be suspected of being Jewish. There were bounties paid to people who turned in their Jewish neighbors.
To present the appearance that they were Christians and to avoid deportation or other types of persecution, the Jewish community in Mirandela got creative. They fashioned sausages from kosher chicken, adding bread to achieve the texture of sausage, as well as garlic for flavor. They hung their faux sausages just as their neighbors did and mostly escaped persecution.
How Is Alheira Served Today?
While many Portuguese still prefer the traditional plate of grilled Alheira and boiled vegetables, the sausage has appeared in many other forms. In Mirandela, it’s typically deep-fried and served on a bed of rice, topped with French fries and a fried egg. Across Portugal, many taverns and small inns serve Alheira in what are called petiscos, similar but different from tapas. Whereas a tapa is typically a small helping of single item, a petisco is essentially a smaller version of a regular plate. An Alheira tapa will generally be just the sausage, perhaps with a garnish, whereas an Alheira petisco will generally have the sausage, the boiled vegetables, the fries or whatever else comes with the full-sized plate, only on a smaller scale. There are also places in Portugal where you can get Alheira on a pizza or in a taco.
Gutterman’s and Gutterman Warheit—Serving the Jewish Community for Five Generations
At Gutterman’s and Gutterman Warheit, with funeral chapels in New York and Florida, we provided comprehensive funeral and burial services to individuals and families in the Jewish community for more than 125 years. We understand the distinct customs within each Jewish tradition and can offer assistance and guidance on any matter, from the preparation of the memorial service to the choice of a casket or monument, the specific details for sitting Shiva or the creation of a Yahrzeit calendar. We also work directly with the Chevra Kadisha, ensuring that the body has been ritually prepared according to Jewish law before interment.
To learn how we can be of assistance, contact us by email or call us at one of the numbers listed below.
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